On Saturday and Sunday of last weekend, Corail experienced a
great celebration, which resulted in a brilliant wave of pride for the
community. The whole town prepared
for Sunday’s Sacre-Coeur celebration.
Corail has many different religions and many different churches. It is also home to one of the few
Catholic churches in Arcahaie.
Corail’s patron saint is the Sacre-Coeur and the feast day was to be
celebrated on Sunday, July 22nd. This was the first large celebration of Sacre-Coeur that
Corail had since 2007. To prepare
for the Sacre-Coeur, Hope on a String donated its chairs and prepared a special
dance to be performed for some very special visitors. The Catholic Church prepared by beautifying the church,
practicing the ceremony, getting chairs.
The soccer program prepared by putting a palm-frond fence around the
field, cleaned it up, and organized a match for Sunday. Pierre also helped prepare for the
feast by inviting President Martelly’s presidential soccer team to play in
Corail. While this was a
far-fetched idea, Pierre was able to connect with one of his friends who is
close to the Haitian President, and received confirmation that the President’s Foutbòl
team would come to play in Corail on Sunday. Pierre delegated responsibilities to everyone to prepare –
his sister would arrange for all of the food to be cooked, we would make sure
the house was clean and that HOAS was prepared to host them. Having the President’s team in Corail
would be one of the biggest things that have happened to Corail in a long
time. Corail is a town that has
been forgotten by the government – no paved roads, no electricity, and no
running water, barely any support.
One of the solar lamps |
Corail’s Diaspora also supported the event by donating
money, and one man, Nene Always, donated four solar lamps to light the main
street in Corail. They were
installed during the day on Saturday.
There was definitely a feeling in the air of great anticipation!
Some homes in Corail (like Hope on a String headquarters)
have electricity, generated by a generator fueled by diesel. Most people do not have electricity,
however, because the government has not run electrical lines out to Corail. In places where people do have access
to the electrical infrastructure necessary to have electricity, like in
Nanbouk, the access to the electricity is so sporadic that people and
businesses can’t rely on it. For
example, a few weekends ago, Pierre drove several of us to a bar in
Nanbouk. However, the bar wasn’t
open because Nanbouk did not expect to receive electricity that night. Having these 4 solar lamps along the
main road in Corail was truly life changing for many people.
One of the solar lamps - the solar panel is on top. |
On Saturday night, with the new lights installed, everybody
was out on the street. The
toubadou group was playing below the street light located in front of the
Catholic Church, just a 30 second walk from our house. People hung around to the light and to
the toubadou group like moths to a flame – literally. Even small vendors pulled their small shelves of rum, candy,
crackers up to the light to sell.
Down the road, by the next light, was a sound system playing music,
which Nene Always had also lent to the community. More vendors set up their shops, young people hung out on the
street – the community truly came out!
Lara, Pierre, and I walked down to the Toubadou group to
enjoy the night, the music, and the community. Young kids flocked to Lara and I to talk, hang out, and just
be near us. We saw our friend,
Martin, who is about 17 years old.
She lives with her mom, and her two younger half-brothers. Martin’s father passed away when she
was in the womb – he boarded a small, dinky, rowboat destined for the shores of
the United States, but he was lost at sea. Her two brothers, Cleevens and Jackenson, with whom I had a
great conversation, have a father who has lived in the United States for the
past 7 years. This is just one
example of the many families who only have one parent at home. Many families in Corail (and the country)
consist of a single mother. The
father might be absent in the lives of his family for several reasons – he
passed away, he lives in the United States, or he was never married to the
mother and is not around. It seems
that this family model is more prevalent than is the two-parent home.
After we hung out with the Toubadou group, which is a group
of older men that organize to play Toubadou music, we walked down the road
toward the other light. We enjoyed
sugar cane, Prestige (Haiti’s best export – a delicious beer), and then made
our way back home. Lara and I
listened to Pierre’s stories of when he grew up in Corail.
SUNDAY –
SACRE-COEUR!
I woke up excited for the day’s festivities, especially
attending Catholic Mass at Corail’s church. Pierre’s godmother and her husband donated money to rebuild
the church when Pierre was just a little boy. Before, it was just a one-room house close to the road –
now, it is a larger church that is pushed back off the road and has a larger
gathering place in front. For the
Sacre-Coeur, the church was decorated with fresh flowers, and there were rows
and rows of chairs for people to attend Mass. On the altar was a beautiful white linen. It was clear that many people put in a
lot of effort to make the church look so great.
Catholic Church in Corail |
Mass was scheduled to start at 10:00, but the priest did not
show up until a little after 11.
He had already done two masses and was running behind. We showed up at the mass around 10:45,
knowing that the priest had yet to arrive. The people at the church asked us to sit in the front—we
were perceived as special guests, not only because we were with Pierre, but
because we were outsiders visiting the church. We ended up sitting in the fourth row, on the left side of
the aisle. People stared at Lara
and I as we walked in and sat down – perhaps some were curious as to who we
were, and others knew who we were and were happy to see us attend their
church. Many of the children and
adults were familiar to me. I
smiled at people I knew.
Because Catholic Masses have a clear order, I was able to
follow the mass very well—other than the language barrier, of course. But I could understand the parts of the
mass and because I have most of the Catholic Mass memorized from growing up, I
knew what the Priest was probably saying.
This mass had a children’s choir, which sang many songs, and even danced
in the aisle for several. They
were accompanied by conga drums, and a keyboard borrowed from Hope on a
String.
The most powerful part of Mass was the presentation of the
gifts – the part where the wine and host are brought to the altar to be
transformed into the body and blood of Jesus Christ. For the Sacre-Coeur, there was grand procession of
gifts. To music, women in
informal, long dresses, danced slowly and rhythmically in two rows up the
aisle. They balanced large woven
baskets on their heads, filled with coconuts, vegetables, flowers, and
plantains. It was absolutely breath
taking. Thinking about how little
most of these people had and how willing they were to give and sacrifice what
they had for the feast of the Sacred Heart. It was touching, beautiful, and at the same time, it made me
feel sad. What I did not
understand at the time, but which was explained to me later, was that as the
women were presenting their many gifts, the lyrics to the song that the choir
was singing were about sacrificing in the physical world to receive rewards in
the spiritual world. I was moved
to great emotion that this part in the mass, but I did not cry because I did
not want to draw any more attention to myself than I already was just by being
there. But I was thinking about my
family, my Grandma Mattei, as I always do when I am at mass, and I was thinking
of how lucky I was to have this experience. How lucky I am to be welcomed into a community so different
from my own; how lucky I am to have grown up with opportunity and access; how
lucky I am to have a family intact; how lucky I am not to have to worry about
affording and drinking clean water or when my next meal will be.
Then, we said the Lord’s Prayer – I in English and everyone
else in Kreyol. Next, we shared
the sign of peace, which is probably my favorite part of Mass. I love how everyone greets each other,
shakes hands, kisses. It is
invigorating! When it was time for
Communion, I hopped in line with everyone else. I think some people were surprised to see me receiving
community, but at the same time very pleased – I saw many smiles, head nods,
and even a thumbs-up.
Before the Priest dismissed everyone, people made several
announcements. Many people were
thanked for helping to organize the Mass, including Hope on a String for its
keyboard. Mass lasted for two
hours, ending around 2:15.
The inside of the Catholic Church |
Then, we were on full preparation mode for the President’s
soccer team – very important people coming to Corail! The
team arrived in their special vehicles, with Arcahaie police with them, and
their own security detail. They
ate lunch at the house, changed for the game, and then made their way to Hope
on a String. Lara choreographed a fantastic dance, which our dancers practiced all Saturday, and rehearsed for on Sunday. They were definitely ready to show off their abilities! Cassy introduced Hope on a String to everyone, explaining its mission and vision. Then, the dancers took their places, Lara started the music, and the dancing began! The dance was perfect - and it even inspired hoots, hollers, and applause from the audience. The dancers did an
excellent job and the President’s players and guests were truly impressed.
Cassy introducing Hope on a String to the President's team |
The President's Team and special guests watching |
Overall, it was a very successful weekend for Corail!!
President Martelly's foutbòl team |
Pierre and Roro talking to the crowd! |